2025Autumn Village Cellars Wine CatalogueTahbilk, Nagambie Lakes：The Tahbilk property comprises some 1,214 hectares of rich river flats with a frontage of 11 kms to the Goulburn River and 8 kms of permanent backwaters and creeks. About a third (250 hectares) is under vine, a third is crop, and a third natural river wetlands. Annual production in a normal vintage is about 100,000 dozen.Sustainability & Climate Change：Tahbilk and the Purbrick family are deeply engaged in sustainable wine growing and production. Hayley Purbrick (5th Generation Purbrick) was the driver for attaining carbon neutral accreditation in the winery in 2013 under carboNZero with Toitu Envirocare, one of a small number of wineries worldwide where net calculated carbon emissions equal zero.The weather patterns are becoming more extreme. In October 2022, heavy rains threatened to breach an upstream dam, so the authorities released a lot of water at once, resulting in severe flooding downstream, including temporarily submerging Old Tabilk. In some of the vineyards, which had been undergoing organic conversion, they were forced to resort to pesticide spraying to be able to harvest a crop. While Tahbilk will inevitably face water-related issues such as global warming, drought, and flooding in the future, they are choosing to maintain the varietal composition that expresses their style, rather than introducing new varietals. This involves smarter selection of rootstocks that require less water and clones that can withstand extreme temperatures, both cooler and warmer.Tell me about the winemaking tradition and old winery equipment.What is Tahbilk’s winemaking style?unoaked, and made to age as well as it is made to drink now. I love the way Marsanne evolves over time, and how the story of the wine changes. But some customers equally love the current wine that is 6 months out of tank and fermentation, into the bottle and released. Going back, when wine was made in the 1860s through to the early 1900s, there was no electricity and no pumps. You couldn’t pump wine around like we do now, so everything was done by gravity. On the Tahbilk tower they would hoist the grapes up to the doors on the second floor and throw them into the old 3 to 5 ton wooden fermenters which we still use today, as part of the old red cellar, and do the crush and the wonderful things they used to do. Once it was fermented it was drained down into the underground cellars into the big wood casks that range from 1,000 to 3,000 liters that still line the underground cellars for aging. Not all of the casks today are super old because over time they need to be repaired and get to the point where you have to replace some of them. They are not huge volumes, because everything has to be done manually. You still have to get in with a shovel to get the skins out of the open red fermenters. At Tahbilk we are medium bodied in terms of style. It is about elegance in the wines, and the Tahbilk reds do best when they are 13.5 to 14 percent alcohol for the Shiraz, and a touch over 14 percent for the Cabernet. Anything other than that and we lose structure and balance. It comes down CODE13021Variety：Cabernet Sauvignon60%/Shiraz40% Alc. 14.7％RRP￥5,200A classic Australian blend from vineyards with aged vines (the oldest Cabernet was planted in 1949, the Shiraz in 1860 and 1933). Like Tahbilk’s other reds, it was fermented in traditional open-top oak fermenters and aged for 18 months in French and American oak. Concentrated aromas of dark berries, plum, and oak spices add depth and complexity.CODE12452Variety：Shiraz Alc.13.1％RRP￥30,000Produced in small batches from old, own-rooted vines planted in 1860, pre-phylloxera. The grapes are fermented in wooden vats that have been in use for over 155 years and aged for 18 months in French oak (50% new). Notes of blackberry and red berry, truffle chocolate, and subtle spices. This wine has deep flavours and a long finish, showcasing powerful complexity and finesse.①②①The tower (built in 1882) ② Underground cellar excavated in 1860s-70s and still in use today ③ The Purbrick family, from left: Hayley, 5th generation, John, 3rd generation, and Alistair, 4th generation ④Old Marsanne vineyard For wine information, please see www.village-cellars.co.jp.Tahbilk Old Vines Cabernet Shiraz 2019 (screw cap)How do you approach a job where there is 100 years of family tradition?－9－New TahbilkTabilk Lagoon WRwineryOld Tahbilk③④to the timing of the picking, the terroir, and what the estate does best. For the reds, all the blocks are picked and fermented separately, and put away in whatever oak regime we think suit them best, then brought together at blending. I love the Cabernet, especially when it gets some age. It has a hint of blueberries, a tiny hint of capsicum or green adding interest, a touch of eucalypt. The tannins are smooth and balanced, rich and velvety on the palate, with great aging potential. My winemaking team includes winemakers who have been at Tahbilk longer than me, who know when to pick, what the blocks do best at, what the timing looks like. Nothing beats going out to a block during harvest and tasting the fruit itself, and going ‘right, this fruit is ready to pick.’ It’s interesting. When I came to Tahbilk, I was like ‘Right, I’m going to change everything. We’re going to make it better, change it all, put the Jo Nash stamp on it.’ And once you’re here you realize it’s not what you want to do at all, in fact, you want to do the exact opposite. You want to make it ‘even more beautiful’, but keep it exactly the way it is with the styles of wine. So it’s not about changing, it’s about doing things in the vineyard and winery even better. It is the same on the Estate. It’s about making the Estate as beautiful as it is, maintaining the legacy and heritage of our winemaking style and maintaining the integrity and beauty of the estate, including our underground cellar which dates back to 1860. Like our wines, every part of the estate tells a story.Tahbilk 1860 Vines Shiraz 2014 (screw cap)
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