-5-ムーテリー・ヴィンヤード左からジュディ、ロージー、ティムCaptions: Epernay, home to de Venoge.de Venoge Prince Extra Brut NVOrigin: Champagne AOC, FranceVarietals: Pinot Noir 35% (Montagne de Reims)Chardonnay 35% (Côte des Blancs)Pinot Meunier 30% (Côte des Blancs)Dosage: 4.0g/L. Aging in bottle: 48 months. Alc. 12.0%.RRP ¥12,000Made using only rst press juice, with just 4.0g/L dosage, it is fresh and elegant, with very ne fruit aromas, very delicate, pure and salty on the palate. An excellent aperitif.CODE11161de Venoge Louis XV 1996Origin: Champagne AOC, FranceVarietals: Pinot Noir 50% (Verzenay, Ambonnay, Mailly, Bouzy)Chardonnay 50% (Avize, Cramant, Mesnil-sur-Oger, Chouilly)Dosage: 6.0g/L. Aged in bottle: 120 months. Alc. 12.0%.RRP ¥38,000Deep golden, with a fragrant and complex aroma of brioche, mushrooms, vanilla and yeast. A tight structure and long length, with complex and mineral characters lingering on the nish.CODE10880◆ How have you evolved de Venoge’s Champagne style?When I became President in 2005 I decided to change the de Venoge style a little. At that time it was well known for heavy wines, the older vintages were on the muscular side, they were good but not very elegant. The idea was to make them more elegant and fresher, because I think the consumer today loves the freshness and wants to drink it more often. To do this, first you have to find a good Village and good grapes, and of course to know which Village to use you need to have the experience. In tasting vin clair (clear wines) before assemblage I realized some of the Pinot Noir like Verzenay and the Chardonnay like Mesnil were very elegant, but they needed something to elevate them a little. So, for example, we added a little Chardonnay from Trépail and Pinot Noir from Les Riceys. With buying grapes, the growers are very important and you have to create a special relationship, as they can easily sell their Premier and Grand Cru grapes to other producers. For this reason I take care of grower relations personally, and over 20 years have created relationships with the growers, and also with their children, as the next generation takes over the family business.For Cordon Bleu we have also lowered the dosage a lot, and today it has the lowest dosage possible for Brut of 6.1 g/L, which also contributes to the elegance and style. The Louis XV is a simple blend, 50 percent Pinot Noir and 50 percent Chardonnay, 100 per cent Grand Cru, aged in the bottle for 10 years. I wanted more freshness in this wine too, so starting in 2008 , I decided to go non-malolactic, which was a significant change.Disgorgement gives the Louis XV a range of expression that still wines can’t match. We are one of the only Houses to disgorge our finest wine over time, as most of the leading Houses disgorge the complete vintage in one go. Disgorgement is like surgery. When you have surgery on an old person it takes more time to recover than with a younger person. So if you disgorge a Cordon Bleu you can wait 3 months, but after disgorgement on a Louis XV 1996 it is good to wait one to two years before it recovers. With the current 2008 release of Louis XV we made exactly 10,246 bottles, and disgorged 5,000 bottles for the first round, and will disgorge 3,000 bottles for the second round, and keep 2,000 bottles for the future. We had a big problem in 2004 with 20-30 percent of the Louis XV magnum bottles exploding in the cellar. After 10 years in court with the glass manufacturer we finally won damages due to a defect in the glass. Since then not many glass manufacturers wanted to make this bottle, because it is very difficult to make. Finally we found a company in 2018 to make the magnum, and we bottled 5,000 magnums of Louis XV 2018. It will be released in 2028. Champagne is a time-consuming business that requires a long-term view. When you do something in Champagne, you have to look 10 years ahead. In order to further develop the business in the future, we may consider selling the top cuvée de Venoge en primeur like Bordeaux, and store and age the Champagne for customers.de Venoge became part of the BCC (Boizel Chanoine Champagne) Group in 1998. In 2006 the Group bought Lanson Champagne, and with the shareholders attention focused on Lanson, Gilles was given a free hand at de Venoge to develop the business, and introduced Louis XV and Princes around this time. More recently, in 2015 de Venoge acquired a beautiful old maison sitting on 2100 square meters of land in the Avenue de Champagne, which is classified by UNESCO World Heritage as a Living Cultural Landscape. Originally built in 1901, de Venoge renovated the interior in period style, and it is now the company’s main office. As we wrote in the Autumn Catalogue story, two buildings on the site were converted into a hotel and café, and the garden restored and opened to the public. With a young president making smart investments while looking far into the future, the long-term prospects of de Venoge are in very good hands.《From Village Cellars》

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